The country of August

Introduction

Somewhere between the Dniester and the border of Ukraine, hides a rarefied terrain, called Transnistria, better known as the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic. Here the sun rises daily above the same old buildings, monuments and alleys built decades ago. Even though the country could be compared to an open-air museum that conserved all the beauty, it struggles of the Soviet era at the same time. Now it is constantly improving and slowly opening its doors for people from all over the world.

Although I have been in Transnistria several times, I never got to discover it. Perhaps the stereotypes and hearsays left me somehow constrained, but curious too. So I took my camera and went on a trip around Transistria, together with my friend who was born and currently lives there, in order to ascertain the reality of this mysterious land.

Бендер пустынные раскаты

It was about 11 a.m. when I arrived at the bus station in Bendery, the city that always made me think of literature, about the expressive lines that the well-known Russian poet Pushkin wrote while being deported, probably while walking these streets. His several visits and a few lines which the city has inspired “Бендер пустынные раскаты” are commemorated by a street, a park, and a monument (which, by irony also survived some kind of duel, just like the real Pushkin, by being shot from a submachine-gun).

Other things that also survived decades and went through bullets, however, are not always valued the same way. As soon as you leave the bus station, you will come across people who are selling their goods in the street. They simply set down anything that they do not need anymore, directly on the sidewalk. There one may find textiles, instruments, books, and even Soviet badges, once earned for heroic acts and special merits and forgotten today.

At the same time, the city has many places that keep the connection with the past alive. Monuments of commemoration of the Second World War, and the recent war from 1992 are very common throughout the country. Real weapons and machines are exhibited, usually accompanied by stones or walls with the names of the ones who sacrificed their lives.

In addition, they kept motivating their citizens to succeed in their realms, by creating honor boards that portray the most significant people in the city.

Not only the city has an abundance of monuments, but it also has an astonishing Ottoman fortress, built in the 16th century. For a while now, it is open for visitors, and you can either walk between the old, stony walls, or have a rest in the renovated area.

Of course you can always do both, and observe the lovely combination between contrasts of the past and the present. As a matter of fact, I tend to perceive the whole country in this way. It is an interesting reservation of the old Soviet culture and traditions, which, however, underwent a lot of progress and innovation.

Surely there are a lot of places that commemorate and preserve the soviet years, but there is nothing that consigns that atmosphere as well as the buildings from that period. There are several abandoned shops and factories that you can easily spot while walking.

In these places, time immersed the space, and there is nothing left but shattered glass on the floor, broken windows and empty staircases. Wild herbs outgrew the barrier of concrete, the paint slipped off the walls, and only the silent voice of the past lapsed through this void.

A walk on the shore of the Dniester might serve as a little adventure. It is verdurous and ivied, but rewarding as you reach an abandoned port. There are huge metal constructions which have gone rusty through the years and are slowly sinking. I found this symbolistic, as they are drifting away altogether with the old values and mentality.

It is somehow sad to realize that a fabulous port lost its meaning and functionality, but there is also the thought that these structures once worked. Hopefully something new will take its place soon enough.

From here, you can only go back through the same path, and admire the view of the river and the few boats that are still circulating. Somewhere in the distance, you can see an enormous bridge, painted in the flags of Russia and PMR. Besides connecting Tiraspol and Bendery, it is without doubt a huge reminder of the cultural connection with Russia.

On the way to the capital, there are several railways. They appear to look more enchanting in the afterglow, when the flaming sun rays embrace the rusty, reddish rails. From time to time, trains pass with a loud sound, interrupting the peaceful slumber of the nature around.

-Вас приветствует столица ПМР - орденоносный город Тирасполь

The capital initiates its visitors with a big inscription “Вас приветствует столица ПМР – орденоносный город Тирасполь” (You are greeted by the capital of PMR, the order-bearing city of Tiraspol).

Here the number of monuments amplifies, and the city walk turns into a walk through an open-air historic museum. The Memorial of Glory, Monuments to the Transnistrian War, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and other statues and monuments that hallow the memory of the nations’ sacrifices and achievements appear at almost every corner of the city.

As the sun sets down, it is a pleasure to take another walk along the Dniester. The attenuating sun rays burn into the floods of the river in the most beautiful way. People amble the shores, enjoying the last days of the parting summer, and if you let the moment overshadow other thoughts and worries you can become one with them and their spirit.

In the evening, the main street of Tiraspol is brightened by the illumination of various state buildings and cafes. Warm light establishes a pleasant atmosphere, very favorable for walks. The main building of the capital –Дом Советов (House of Councils) has an imposing air of dominance between the other constructions. It was built in what is known as the “Stalinist Empire style”, and it has preserved all the Soviet symbolism.

Markets and gas stations are not usually mentioned in guides, but the “Sheriff” network may be also considered as a point of attraction. This network started once as a football club now is dominant in many branches of the market.

At the same table

People in this region are known for their hospitality and kindness. Scarcely you will find English speakers, but you will surely find curious and open people, who are willing to communicate. If you are lucky enough, by the end of the day, you will sit at the same table.

Dmitriy was born here. Nowadays he lives a calm life, in a rural house in the heart of Tiraspol. There he has a summerhouse, a small arbour, a garden and a roofed swing. Everything in this yard retained the spirit of the old time. If you become one with the street’s silence, you can find yourself part of the family gatherings that once occurred in the arbour, or you can feel the seasons changing fast in the garden. In locations like this yard, you become one with the place, the time, and space.

Dmitriy can not imagine any other lifestyle better than this. He enjoys the fresh air, the silence, the soil, the songs of the birds, and all the other things that vanished from the lives’ of people dwelling in big cities.

He is now coordinating a project called “Законник” that fights for a better managing of ecological problems, and aims to improve life conditions throughout the country.

Through the fields

Besides Bendery and Tiraspol, PMR has other charming cities and villages, such as Grigoriopol, Dubasari, Ribnita, Camenca, etc. They all maintained old, Soviet buildings, cars and culture. Nevertheless, they have new sightseeing points, playgrounds, parks and even beaches on the riverbank.

All the way through these cities goes along, more or less, with the Dniester. The best place to stop is near Krasnaia Gorka village. The field engulfed the whole expanse. The descent to the river comes in huge natural “steps” adorned by pine trees, bushes, and wild herbs. The riverbank is lined with all kinds of trees, as it becomes wider and then narrows again, and so on.

Taking the road towards Grigoriopol, then a forgotten country road (outside the city) to the right, which goes through meads and green tunnels formed from connecting tree branches, brings you to a quiet heath, at the foot of a weald. Following the slightly visible path, crossing little plank bridges over a small spring, you will reach to a modest, but beautiful waterfall.

A thin jet of water peacefully streams over a ruby, rocky wall. It flows down and forms a round pond that serves as an abode for small creatures, such as frogs. They tend to hide between the outgrowing weeds, but sometimes jump and splash in the shallow water.

There is a large bench under a tree, suitable for meditation, reflection and introspections due to the harmony of the surroundings.

Spacious meadows, solitary hills, forest belts, and of course, the Dniester will besiege the way, bringing peace to a wandering mind. In some of these places, you may feel like the time has stopped, like the seasons do change, but the essence does not. Same cows and horses roam on the meadows, same shepherds walk these hills, and same trees outstand any weather.

It is August here today. Even though the days are still very hot, the flourishing plants gradually sallow, cold rains drizzle, and the sunsets are much earlier. Evenings are longer and calmer, people are more thoughtful, and the whole nature seems abeyant.

The last days of August are always a perfect time to stop and think, stop and take a deep breath, stop and enjoy the warm sunrays, vigilant streams, refreshing winds, before autumn comes with its algid days.

It is August in this land in a deeper meaning too. It has to undergo changes, face difficulties, and grow into something even more beautiful. It has to survive the fall and the winter, in order to clear its way into a peaceful, enticing spring. However, right now it is the best moment to visit this corner of the world, so I am inviting you. Come and take a walk through this gallery of history, culture and landscapes.